Xocolata Amb Xurros (Chocolate with Churros)

Kilian and I went out for the most sugar-filled breakfast imaginable: xocolata amb xurros.

Xurros with lots of sugar!

When the weather turns to autumn, xurro trucks, xurrerias, begin to pop up in different places around Catalonia. These trucks serve freshly deep-fried xurros, which are different from porras, which the Catalans seem to love (according to Wikipedia, this is most popular in Spain and Italy).

Xurreria at night, courtesy of Flickr

The first time I heard about churros was in my middle school Spanish class where we learned about "Mexican" food, including churros. We had a celebration where we could try these desserts, along with a variety of other typical eats. Those churros from the States are not the xurros of Catalonia. These ones are markedly softer, served fresh and warm with hot xocolata desfeta (melted chocolate), a very dense, dark, rich hot chocolate beverage.

As I mentioned before, this meal is served at breakfast. I'm not sure I would call it a meal; to me it is more like a dessert. But this is typical here and when in Catalonia, do as the Catalans do, or so they say.

Xurros are the small and thin ones. Photo from: CocinaRecetas)

Having tried xurros from different places, I find that there can be a huge difference in taste and texture depending on a number of factors including how long they are fried for, the dough, and the amount of oil/sugar ratio when served. For me, overly oily xurros are too much for my stomach to bear for very long.

The type of xocolata also makes a difference. Since there are both milk chocolate and dark chocolate variations of xocolata desfeta, this contributes to the richness of the meal, as well as the consistency of the xocolata desfeta. A more liquid xocolata will go much further than the thick, pudding-like kind which is heavy in and of itself but a very rich dark chocolate won't make it as long (for me and my tummy) as a less intense milk chocolate.

Milk chocolate (left), xurros, dark chocolate (right)

This combination is very heavy and sweet; not for the faint of stomach. Eaten with moderation, it makes for a quite delicious breakfast or afternoon snack.

Delicaffessen

There is a new cafe in town - new meaning that it wasn't there in 2012 - with a distinctly North American touch. It's styled with black and white paint, with red accents and black and white photos in red frames. The photos come from various movies, from classic to modern, the scene of which includes coffee. There are many, many tables in this cafe and they provide free wi-fi. They bring a large jug of water with each order, which is exactly what any coffee drinker will need. The impression I get is that they WANT you to be comfortable and to stay. They also speak English.

some of the interior detail

The coffee itself is excellent. I have tried the regular once and the decaf a number of times. I always order the same: cafe amb llet or cafe con leche or coffee with milk. I have learned that a European (or Israeli) cappuccino is not the same as one in the US and have found these cafe amb llet's to be a delightful substitute. Anyway, back to the coffee: the decaf here does not taste like decaf. It is so delicious that you don't even realize it is decaf. Decaf is usually disgusting and hardly drinkable but here it is so sweet and smooth; there is hardly any difference.

cafe amb llet with magdalena

The only downside to this cafe is the pastry selection. Once, I had a piece of homemade brioche which went perfectly with the coffee but since it's been hit or miss. There is little to choose from and I'm not convinced it is homemade. If you like to have your coffee with a pastry, this may or may not be the place for you. 

You can visit their Facebook page here to find their location and hours.

Pizzeria Toto - Delicious Pizza in El Vendrell

There is this little pizzeria in El Vendrell that Kilian and I enjoy quite a bit. They make thin crust, oven-roasted pizzas with some 45 different toppings options, many of which are available for only 7€.

All I have to say about this pizza: it's SO delicious! I am not a pizza lover (bread + cheese = not my favorite combination) but ever since discovering this place, I find myself wanting to go there at least once per week. I think it helps that the pizza is not greasy and the crust is so thin.

They also have a lunch menu for 3.80€. It's a great deal and the quality is not that bad. It's not the best but at that price, it's a really great find. 

mmm... pizza!!

El Vendrell's Antique Market

About once a month, El Vendrell's Rambla converts into an outdoor antique market. From coins, records, and posters to old books, decorative items and jewelry, there is plenty to sort through on a relaxed Saturday morning.

Museu Vil·la Casals - Museum on the life of Pau Casals

Pau Casals (photo credit from Fundacio Pau Casals)

On September 11th, Catalan National Day, we went to visit the Museum Vil·la Casals which is located on the beach a few minutes from El Vendrell. The Museum is situated in a former of home of Pau Casals, one of the most well-known and respected cellists and composers of recent history.

He is Catalan and was born in El Vendrell in a home near the Placa Nova at the center of town, which can also be visited. He is especially noted for transforming the way cello is played, for his commitment to peace and non-involvement in politics, and composing a song which became the anthem for the United Nations.

Although he passed away in Puerto Rico, his remains have been returned to El Vendrell, where he is buried. On Catalan National Day, one of the cultural activities listed in El Vendrell's event calendar, was paying respects to his resting place and leaving flowers.

A visit to the Museum Vil·la Casals will provide you with an overview of his life, which is done via audio/video presentations in each room in conjunction with artifacts preserved from his life. The home itself is located on the Mediterranean Sea and contains beautiful gardens and sculptures. It is not a large museum but well worth the visit if you are interested in history, music and culture.

Museu Vil·la Casals (photo credit: National Geographic)

Chocolate Almond Cake

Enjoying a large slice of homemade chocolate almond cake with a decaf coffee with milk (café amb llet) at La Xocolateria in the Plaça Nova of El Vendrell.

The cake is moist and not too sugary or overwhelmingly chocolaty. It is just sweet enough, making it an ideal complement with an unsweetened hot drink of choice.

Delish!!

The Friday Market

El Vendrell's Friday morning market has all you want and more. From locally grown and fresh from the field produce to clothing and household goods, you can get lost in this market for hours.

Look at those tomatoes and peppers!

Fresh seasonal fruit (and look at all those stands in the background).

Car traffic is blocked for this market.

The Rambla, re-envisioned as shopping district.

Musica a la Vila in El Vendrell

Band from Valencia

For those of you who are interested in visiting Barcelona and getting out of the city for the day, you can easily take the train to El Vendrell. Every Wednesday in August, there is this Música a la Vila festival, where traditional music from the Catalan countries is performed. This is provided free of charge and takes place in one of the town's many plazas.

Every week the music is different and this week we heard a Valencian band play traditional music with hand drum, banjo, cello, flute and other instruments. Pretty awesome.

The Sardana: Catalan Circle Dance

 On Sunday evenings in the summer, the Rambla is cleared of its dining tables and room is made for a stage. This stage will host a band who will play sardana music and the spacious Rambla converts into a dance floor. Young and old alike gather to watch and dance.

The Rambla of El Vendrell with church tower in background.

The sardana is a traditional Catalan circle dance. The participants hold hands in unity and with light movements of the feet and hands, they dance to the rhythm of the music. Watching the sardana dance while listening to its accompanying music generates feelings of peace, tranquility and joy (I loved it so much, we had a professional Sardana group perform at our wedding and show us how its done).

Here's a short video so you can see what it is all about (it gets interesting about one minute in). These folks are in the typical costume.

More photos from our visit to the Rambla to watch Sardanes. I can't wait to learn!

With the band playing sardana music, the circle starts out small...

...then more people are eager to join.

It grows very large; anyone can join.

The Rambla is so beautiful in the summer with the trees in full bloom.

The Festa Major del Vendrell

The Festa Major or Major Feast is traditional Catalan cultural event celebrated annually. There are Festa Major's throughout Catalonia, in towns big and small. It is one of the biggest celebrations of the year for Catalans. In El Vendrell, its celebration aligns with the feast day of Saint Anne, the town's patron saint and is recognized as the most important day of the town's festive calendar.

The Festa is a multi-day event that involves fire and lights, diables (devils) and correfocs (beasts of fire or fire-runs), drumming, concerts and fireworks, among other typical Catalan cultural staples such as castellers and sardanes.

Some preliminary activities for this year's Festa Major began Saturday night. On one of the Rambla's, there was a display of all the correfocs, many of which are dragons, that El Vendrell has to offer. The correfocs are hollow which allow for one or more persons to drive them when they are lit. Each group or team associated with their respective correfoc set up an information stand for families and friends to ask questions, learn more and even buy a tee-shirt supporting their favorite correfoc!

As the sun was setting, these correfocs were ignited and the preview of what is to come next weekend was quite a spectacular!

Child devils with fireworks

A female correfoc

One large dragon correfoc, who had to be shortened so he could make it through the town's narrow streets.

More diables

Insect correfocs

Correfoc

For more information about the Festa Major of El Vendrell, visit:

1. Enfesta't
2. Ajuntament del Vendrell

For more information on Festa Major's in other towns, visit:

1. Festa.cat
2. Festa Catalunya

Bee/Wasp correfoc